The Casual Blog

Tag: zebras

More on our South African safari and new discoveries on birds and plants

I finally finished going through the thousands of pictures I took during our South Africa safari, and found a few more I wanted to share. 

During the safari, we saw animals doing many of the things we know they have to do, like eating, drinking, bathing, teaching their young, and mating.  We didn’t see any actual kills, but we did see several big cats feeding on recent kills.   I debated whether to share photographs of those, since it’s unavoidably sad, and perhaps upsetting, to deal with the death of a beautiful creature like an impala.  But I also see an element of beauty in the predator and his or her success.  

The lions, leopards, and cheetahs must kill to survive and to feed their young.  It’s just the way they’re made.  It turns out that it’s quite difficult for them to hunt successfully, and they often fail.  Grazing animals are highly sensitive to predator risks, and most of them are, when healthy, either faster or stronger than their predators.  On this trip, we watched a hidden lion lie in ambush for lengthy periods hoping, unsuccessfully, for an unwary zebra or impala.  

The grazing animals that the big cats catch are generally the old, young, or ill.  In fact, their hunting is important for the health of the grazing herds.  It  keeps diseases in check and prevents overpopulation and overgrazing that would lead to more death.  Nature generally manages to keep things remarkably well balanced among predators, prey, and plants, when there isn’t human interference.

There’s a vast amount that we do not know about nature, which is exciting, in a way:  there’s so much more to learn.  This week the New Yorker had a lively and interesting piece by Rivka Galchen about what scientists are learning about bird song. 

I’ve been interested in bird song for many years, but mainly as a way to identify birds that won’t allow themselves to be seen.  From watching flocks of big birds like tundra swans and Canada geese, I’d come to suspect that their vocalizations allowed them to coordinate their travels together.  Now researchers are confirming the suspicion that their sounds have a lot of communicative content.  

Scientists have long recognized that birds make specific alarm calls, and are learning that some of those calls differentiate the threats of, say, a hawk or a snake.  It turns out that bird parents make sounds while incubating their eggs that the developing baby bird learns.  We’re learning that bird communication is more complex than we thought, which indicates that their intelligence is more complex than we thought.  

With fall arriving, it’s gotten a bit chilly for me to have my morning tea on our deck, but when it’s mild I like to sit out there as the sun is rising and listen to the birds.  I’ve been using the Merlin app to identify calls and songs I don’t already know.  The app has gotten a lot better over the last couple of years, and is almost always accurate, at least as to the birds I’m familiar with.  

Speaking of the natural world, I’m in the midst of a remarkable book about plants:  The Light Eaters:  How the Unseen World of Plant Intelligence Offers a New Understanding of Life on Earth, by Zoe Schlanger.  Schlanger has reviewed the scientific literature and interviewed leading botany experts researching how plants sense the world and deal with their environments.  Her style is friendly and approachable, and her content is at times mind blowing.  

It turns out that plants are much more  proactive than we used to think.  There are species that modify their chemistry in response to predators to make themselves less appetizing.  There are ones that send out chemical signals to warn others of their kind of particular predators.  Some even send out chemical signals to summon insects that will prey upon the plants’ enemies.  

There is considerable evidence that plants respond to touch.   Some researchers have found that they respond to certain sounds, which we might call hearing.  They modify their behavior to avoid threats and to improve their nutrition.  The puzzle is that they lack a clear hearing organ, like an ear, or a centralized interpretive organ, like a brain.  How they do it is yet to be discovered.  

But it’s hard to avoid the thought that plants are in some sense conscious.  Schlanger recognizes that the idea of plant intelligence is still controversial in the botanical science world, and gives credit to scientists for being cautious and careful.  In this time of great anxiety about the human world of politics and war, her new book is a welcome reminder that, quite apart from humans, the world has been and continues to be full of wonders.   

Traveling to Africa, and getting back

Last week I was in St. Augustine, Florida, at the annual Birding and Photo Fest.  I took a lot of pictures of the big birds at the Alligator Farm rookery, and will be sorting through those and sharing a few soon.

But first, I wanted to pass along a few more pictures from our March safari adventure in Botswana.  Even though it was only a few weeks ago, it’s hard for me to believe all these animals are really there!  So much of the earth has been taken over by humans, and there are only a few places where other animals still live their lives as they did long ago.  Africa is really special in that way.  It was a joy and a privilege to be there, and I look forward to going again.

However, the air travel to and from was far from pleasurable.  To get there, we were scheduled to fly United from Raleigh to Washington to Newark to Cape Town.  But our first flight was delayed, and the tight connection in Washington meant we had to change everything.  We eventually got from Raleigh to Washington to Munich (overnight, with a ten hour layover in Munich), and then (after another overnight flight) to Cape Town.  We were quite fried when we got to Cape Town, but the morning was sunny and mild, and our room at Noah House was charming.  We slept for a couple of hours, and then went to find the Red Line bus stop for a little tour of the city.  

On the way, we got scammed out of two credit cards.  I’d like to think that things would not have unfolded so badly if I’d had my normal wits about me, but anyhow, I didn’t, and they did.  

As we walked down the city street, a well-spoken man stopped us and said that they were shooting a movie on the street, and we needed to walk on another street.  I’d seen movies being made on the streets of New York, so this didn’t strike me as particularly strange.  As we were discussing this, another local man came up, and said he had the same problem.  The first man pointed him in the direction he needed to go, and told us we should follow along.

We followed along around the  corner and into a convenience store, where the fellow there said we needed to get a document.  To do this, we needed to put our credit card in the credit card reader.  We hesitated, but another man said there was no charge, and this was a normal requirement.  

The credit card reader didn’t seem to be working, and one of the fellows offered to “help.”  Then we tried a second card, which disappeared in the machine.  Someone said that the machine was slow, and it would come out in a minute.  After three minutes, I realized something was definitely wrong.  The men in the store were gone.

Then a young woman appeared in the store.  She said the men were scam artists, and they made her stay in the back of the store.  

We were confused and shaken, but realized that one of the men was skilled at sleight of hand, and had made our cards disappear.  Sally urged me to call the banks straight away, and I did.  In the few minutes it took to get to the fraud departments, the scammers wracked up almost $40 thousand in charges.    

We were not held accountable for the charges, which was good.  And once we’d settled down, we were grateful that we hadn’t been held up at gunpoint or physically assaulted.  Fortunately, we had one more credit card to use on the trip.   Things could have been worse.  But it was a rocky start.  The one positive I took away was a dose of humility, and more sympathy for others who make big errors of judgment.

Our travel within South Africa and Botswana, by buses, airplanes, and boats, all went smoothly, but returning to the U.S. was brutal.  Although I’d picked aisle seats when booking through the Chase travel service, United put us in center seats all the way back.  Our route again involved a long layover, this time in Newark, trying to get to Washington, and then, finally, to Raleigh.  We waited the better part of an hour at RDU to get our bags.  Total door-to-door travel time:  43 hours.

But for all that, I’m so glad we did it, and already starting to think of our next trip there.  We learned a lot about the animals, but there’s so much more to learn.  Spending time with them also helps our thinking about other dimensions – the communities of big animals, the relationships between communities, their relationships with other forms of life, and our relationships with all of these.